People have been crossing the Severn Estuary for thousands of years. Until the development of good roads, railways and canals it was often the quickest way of transporting people, animals and goods over long distances.
Roman coin found at Black Rock,
People’s Collection Wales
Until recently, it was also a very dangerous thing to do. The estuary has one of the highest tidal ranges in the world, fast currents, treacherous rocky reefs and shifting sand banks. There are many shipwrecks dotted along the coastline that testify to this danger. The large number of Roman coins found along the coast at ancient crossing places are thought to be offerings to the gods from Roman travellers as thanks for a safe passage.
The earliest recorded regular ferry crossing is from 1131, between Aust and Beachley. This was used by the monks at Tintern Abbey and is often called the Old Passage, although a second crossing at Black Rock, known as the New Passage, may actually be older! Both of these ferry crossings were dangerous; travellers in the 18th century would often take the longer land route via Gloucester rather than risk the crossing.
In 1864, the Bristol & South Wales Union Railway opened a new rail and steam ferry crossing at Black Rock. Designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel (who died in 1859), two piers were built at New Passage on the English side of the Severn and Portskewett on the Welsh side. Trains would pull out on to a pier and passengers would descend to a waiting steam ferry. This would take them across the estuary to the opposite pier, where a waiting train would take them onward. The steam ferry railway reduced the distance travelled from Cardiff to Bristol from 94 miles (via Gloucester) to just 38 miles. You can still see the brick footings of the pier at Black Rock during low tide.
The opening of the tunnel for regular passenger services on 1 December 1886 marked the end of Brunel’s unique steam ferry railway, the last crossing by the steam packet taking place the previous evening. The 7km-long tunnel took 14 years to build and cost almost £2 million (about £148 million today). For the first time, travellers could now cross the estuary without concern for the tides or weather, and coal from South Wales could be rapidly dispatched to English markets.
This colossal undertaking was designed by civil engineer Charles Richardson, who also built the piers at New Passage and Portskewett. He was appointed Chief Engineer on the project when work began in 1873, along with John Hawkshaw as Consulting Engineer.
After six years only 138 yards remained to be excavated when disaster struck. On 18th October 1879, workers hit a freshwater spring flowing under the Severn and the tunnel was flooded. It would take two years and considerable effort, including the innovative use of scuba diving equipment, before the spring was contained and work could recommence.
Thomas A. Walker in an engraving by George J. Stodart
After the accident, Hawkshaw was appointed Chief Engineer and Thomas A Walker was employed as the new main contractor. Walker was considered an excellent employer and developed Sudbrook village for his workers, building houses, a post office, mission hall and infirmary. After the tunnel was completed, Walker started a shipbuilding business at Sudbrook, employing many of those that had worked on the tunnel, which operated up until 1926.
Transport changed in the 20th century with the arrival of the motor car. Drivers wishing to cross the Severn could either use the car ferry on the Old Passage, between Aust and Beachley, or use the car shuttle train service through the tunnel. Both of these operated from 1926 to 1966, when the Severn Bridge opened to traffic.
A bridge between Aust and Chepstow had first been proposed in 1824 by Thomas Telford, but construction of the modern bridge began in 1961. It took three years to complete at a cost of £8 million. At the time, the aerodynamic design of the bridge deck was revolutionary and has since been used on many of the worlds long-span bridges. Part of the bridge is now a Grade I listed structure.
Building of the Second Severn Crossing began in 1992 and took four years to complete. In total, it runs for over 5km and carries around 60,000 vehicles per day. The Severn Tunnel passes 500m upstream of the bridge, but crosses under the bridge on the English side. The massive 1600 tonne caissons supporting this section of the bridge had to be very carefully sited. The project director, Norman Haste, drew inspiration from Thomas Walker and the construction of the tunnel and the bridge has won several industry awards.
Unlike our ancestors, who faced a perilous crossing, travellers today can speed across the Severn Estuary in minutes, by train through the Severn Tunnel or over one of the road bridges, each an engineering marvel.
Second Severn Crossing (Prince of Wales Bridge)
![Wesleyan Methodist chapel Castleton (Penny Gregson)[2].jpg](https://images.squarespace-cdn.com/content/v1/5a1d5fb38a02c70db7c34f81/fe4960cd-db68-469d-8411-f5e21327e383/Wesleyan+Methodist+chapel+Castleton+%28Penny+Gregson%29%5B2%5D.jpg)
Postcard showing the opening of New Passage Pier, 1864.
Pier footings at Black Rock, visible at low tide.
A perilous crossing
Portrait 1755 by Olof Arenius
Reinhold Rücker Angerstein was an eighteenth-century industrial spy. He was paid by the Swedish government to travel around Europe during the 1750s gathering information on industrial processes and new technology. He recorded his travels in detailed diaries and in 1754 he crossed the Severn Estuary, via the New Passage, into Wales, landing at the Black Rock ferry terminal.
Read more...
On 25th June wind and rain that made themselves heard throughout the night did not hold out any promise of a speedy and safe passage. However, towards dinnertime, when the tide had started to flow out against the wind and waves, the captain decided to take the risk. More than 20 horses and an even greater number of passengers, as many as there was room for, were crammed into the ship. Another ship, belonging to the opposite side, had to return empty, as it was not allowed to take cargo or passengers from our side.
The horses were so unruly during the crossing that it seemed that the ship would fly apart. This caused her to spring a leak and the waves washed over her. Passengers screamed and wailed, the sailors were hampered by the overcrowding, quite at a loss as to what to do, and complete confusion reigned. We all expected catastrophe at any moment. This fear continued until we approached land and could with great joy jump onto the rocks to dispel the anxiety that had filled us all with consternation.